Hedonism in Catalonia

José and Rosa, the owners of Can Viver, welcome you warmly and are flattered by any interest in their small olive oil production and in the masia itself, which they have been restoring from ruins for more than twenty years. José, heir to an almost thousand-year-old Catalan dynasty first mentioned in the 12th century, carefully collected the family heirlooms now displayed in the cozy hall on the second floor.

The main purpose of the visit is the tasting. After a tour of the mill and the olive grove, Rosa invites you to the table, where José talks about varieties, aromas and differences. The tasting is conducted blind, which turns it into a real gastronomic adventure — finished off with dishes Rosa prepares from local products and, of course, Viver oil.

The history of Can Ràfols dels Caus dates back to the 15th century, although most of the current buildings are from the 17th. The house still keeps Roman household items found on the estate — more than two thousand years old. Its main gem is a modern winery carved right into the rock, its entrance framed by stone doors weighing about two tons.

The winery is built on three levels: the process runs vertically, from top to bottom, so the wine needs no pumps and no pressure and barely touches oxygen — it simply moves down by gravity. The location inside the rock creates unique acoustics, so opera concerts are often held right among the wine amphorae.

It is impossible to talk about Catalonia without mentioning calçotada. It is an event in itself: friends and families gather outdoors to roast calçots, a special variety of long green onion, grilled over burning grapevines. Catalans take it seriously — aprons, sometimes gloves and bibs, because dipping the stalks in thick romesco rarely ends without stains.

The season begins in late November and lasts until April, peaking in January — exactly when winemakers prune the vines, which become the perfect fuel. After the fire, guests move inside to rooms with fireplaces and stained glass, where the low winter sun draws patterns on white tablecloths, and wine is poured from a porró.

In the heart of Vic, an hour's drive from Barcelona, stands the VIA restaurant. In a historic mansion, in an atmosphere of quiet luxury, chef Nicolau Roger — the region's gastronomic star — creates truly unique dishes, working only with seasonal products from small producers.

He is called the “truffle maestro” for his ability to combine fresh local products with truffles, revealing their flavour in the most unexpected variations. Even an inexperienced gourmet will appreciate a menu where dishes are made without artificial additives and every ingredient keeps its essence.

For those who appreciate a simple and understated atmosphere, Mas Sant Marc is an excellent choice. It is an old masia converted into a hotel that has kept the spirit of a family farm — authentic country-style rooms, a garden, and the quiet rural landscape of La Cerdanya around it.

Here, in a calm and friendly atmosphere, you can ride horses — the hotel has its own stable — cycle around the foothills of the Catalan Pyrenees, play golf on the hotel course or simply hike the surroundings.